Celine Fall 2016 RTW Brings In the Baggy Comfort and Flared Silhouettes

Fashion

Celine creative director Phoebe Philo has really been changing things up at the brand house of late, this time pairing up mini dresses in boiled wool with flared trousers. It is all about elongated fits and lots of flares for the fall and winter seasons, the 2016 trends playing some part but not nearly as much as most other labels have brought them in. While the clothing available in the Celine fall/winter 2016-2017 collection itself was mostly for the fall and chillier weather, the footwear certainly was lagging behind and did not really get the memo it appears, for the ladies often appear on the Paris Fashion Week catwalk in sandaled feet, leather and straps and all.

Celine Fall/ Winter 2016-2017 RTW - Paris Fashion Week

Seasons appear to be blended here, with sunshine and lemon yellows in the mix actually and a few sleeveless dresses for extra loving. Plus, since it is summer at some part of the word at all points, it makes perfect sense to have the fashion designs reflect that reality. Those kick flared pants, though… they can pass in most places, most times of the year. They scream baggy comfort, and who would not want that?

Celine for the fall of 2016 seems to be more fundamental, more utilitarian and lacking in the extra hoopla we are used to seeing. It is relaxed, has much more to do with a leisurely time spent during the day, and includes some odd pieces such as a big black tweed bubble top. Shirts, trousers, coats and all are Philo’s thing and she enjoyed working with the different cuts to pull together a collection that indeed makes us want to cuddle in the softness of the oversized pieces. Celine has many strengths and it appears that each season is playing up on a new one. We look forward to seeing what spring 2017 will have in store for us.

The clothing in this line-up was pretty much a bold statement of beautiful pieces, ones that are meant to live in, move in and show off an evolved taste overall. “It’s about finding the possibilities. Curiosity. Going in there and trying to find it,” she said. “Find the stillness sometimes in it.” The stillness certainly is there, with its mellow behavior and general calm.

We see the undone cuffs and feel free and disentangled from the world; we notice that nothing is restricting and let out a breath. Japanese proportions come into play but even that is to give the body space to move in, evolve in.

The outerwear appears with cape-ish flaps and drawstring bottoms, while feminine tastes could also be seen in some of those gorgeous dresses with skirts floating about the calves. Some of the dresses were embroidered with organic link shapes, while we saw some shiny silk ones with ruching and knotting, the colors ranging between black, white, mustard yellow and a dash of mineral blue. Even a touch of green appears in one instance on the pants, while we generally are looking at creamy earth tones. It was interesting to say the least and those loose trousers are definitely a coveted piece from the show.

Tag: Celine

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Philipp Plein Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW – Milan Fashion Week

Fashion

As per usual, there was a lot going on in Philipp Plein‘s fall 2016 fashion show. For his ready-to-wear fall/winter 2016 runway showing atMilan Fashion Week, he included a performance by Chris Brown, although this wasn’t quite as exciting as last season’s appearance by Courtney Love. The clothes that walked the runway were a mixture of so many styles, yet everything worked together well. To best describe the collection, one would have to refer to sci-fi futurism, an ancient or dystopian society, and classic regality; these were the three most noticeable components in the garments and accessories.

Philipp Plein Fall/ Winter 2016-2017 RTW - Milan Fashion Week

The actual show of the runway was another spectacle, which was to be expected. For this season, Plein brought in three semitrailers with models hitching a ride in the backs, clinging to the frames. This was the perfect prelude for the pieces that walked the runway, particularly those with industrial structuring that seemed to draw inspiration from stormtroopers; after all, what better way to celebrate the new Star Wars movie than to see aspects in a Plein show? But there were also the other aforementioned elements that intermingled with this more futuristic theme.

Gold trim gave the image of either an ancient or a dystopian society, depending on the context of each garment. In some instances, this also played into the more regal occurrences in the line. For instance, a floor-length black number with rib-shaped cutouts along the sides featured a gold-studded high neck with thick straps of the same gold in an interesting pattern down to the bust-line. This type of design reminded of ancient Egypt, and the royalty of the time in particular. This is where the regality ebbed its way into the mix. It was also present in the rare occasion that lace popped up on the runway. The use was minimal, but when it was there, the black lace was rich and stunning, hinting back to Victorian elegance. These three aspects were Plein’s new way of standing out for the season, as per his standard accomplishment of not conforming to current trends.

This is an aspect he touched on in a statement about his show. “Everyone at the moment is going on a ’70s mood. But I don’t want to be a follower; I want to do things the way I like to do. And I am influenced by modern street style, and by hip hop. That’s what I love.”

All in all, a Plein fashion show at Milan is a spectacle worth seeing. His runway shows go beyond the catwalk and focus more on the entertainment of a show. From his surprise celebrity performances to the progressive use of technology, you never quite know what to expect with each coming season. Due to this level of intrigue, it wouldn’t be surprising to see the designer with his slot for Milan Fashion Week for many more delightfully surprising seasons to come.

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fall 2016 RTW Line Is About the Power of Romance

Fashion

A fairy tale of incredible fashion, the girls came down the stairs in their outfits, gowns and dresses and pieces to behold that ensured you understood the power of beauty. Yes, the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini fall/winter 2016-2017 collection surely made the Milan Fashion Week runway all the lovelier with its creations today. Starring things off was a red cropped pants with lacy blouse combination, black ribbon for a belt and ruffles down the chest, looking more like she was ready to embark on a journey by sea than anything else.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Fall/ Winter 2016-2017 RTW - Milan Fashion Week

“I thought about the amount of willpower you need to maintain a gentle approach to life and I believe it takes courage to be romantic these days,” said Lorenzo Serafini and his collections always do contain a high dose of romantic allure we all need in the modern world.

Fur coats came into play, along with sheer dresses in powder blue, shiny black skirts a favorite, while there was still some showing off of what is underneath that blouse as ladies took to the stage without coverage underneath the transparency of some of the looks. Leather dresses with black lace sleeves and necks were pretty interesting unto themselves, paired with sheer black pantyhose and thick gothic half boots. That particular look was pretty short, along with some of the other sheered designs.

Trends that appeared throughout included a whole lot of transparency, lots of frills and ribbons, long skirts and red pants, plunging necklines and loose hair. Black and white combination has been big since 2015 as it is, making the long lace fringed dress with the round neckline one of our very favorites from the line-up, the sheer translucence appealing to the senses as the skirts sway around the legs. We find ourselves enjoying the black leather looks and the high turtlenecks in lace, the pronounced shoulders to the coatdresses and the half boots seen throughout.

We see ribbons on the necks, pearly buttons down the chest, accentuated waists with strategic faux belt placements and some modernized Victorian looks that include sheer blouses with billowing material, lace pants and knee-length boots, stiletto heels and all, sometimes lined with fur. There are even some that are over the knee and nearer to mid-thigh. Flouncy skirts and dresses, though, more than make up for any mistakes made throughout, instead allowing the customer to fall in love with Philosophy all over again.

Founded in 1984, the Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini brand has grown ever since, including some major trends in its gorgeous collections, proving Lorenzo Serafini is good enough to handle the label created by Alberta Ferretti under the Aeffe Group as pret a porter. His works first appeared on stage last year this time, taking the fashion community by storm.

We can easily say that the Philosophy fall 2016 RTW collection is Serafini’s best to date and that the Milan Fashion Week is just the right venue to grow from. Capelets are huge for 2016 it appears, as well as lace pants, making Lorenzo a genius in being able to tell what to include when as he works. It is a stellar collection and we look forward to picking up a dress or two or three soon enough.

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Blumarine Fall 2016 RTW Line Unveils Sensual Lace and Rich Furs

Fashion

The first thing that caught our attention from the Blumarine fall 2016 fashion show today was the hair on the models sent onto the catwalk, along with those gorgeous fur coats and bright hued shoes. It was the braids, the side part and messy tendril framing the face that made the ladies appear like they just got out of a warrior’s battle and immediately put on something stylish. That was the first look we saw, which was followed by some rather intriguing designs. Loose hair, side combed and left natural was in. Some even had hairclips on.

Blumarine Fall/ Winter 2016-2017 RTW - Milan Fashion Week

Blumarine might not be the top house on the fashion radar, but it certainly does have a lot of class and one can be sure that if you want a brash and brainy combination, Blumarine’s your label of choice.

There was a lot of transparency happening throughout the Blumarine fall/winter 2016-2017 collection, but also many different genres entering the stage as one lady walked down in a metallic shimmering mini hemmed dress, the skirts swishing about, followed by one in a midi skirt, sheer blouse and pom-poms hanging from the ears. The looks were exotic but yet close to home, quite trendy but rather unique to stand on their own. Pink was a pretty common color used, as well as shiny chrome and shades of teal.

Lurex was used often enough, on skirts especially, while that cocktail dress in brown and deep sea blue leopard print was pretty much what we would have expected from the wonders of Blumarine designs. There was even a lurex tiered plisse mid-length dress in green with a bib front that is made of ruffles, while it was beyond perfect to see the sway of the cinched waist grey coat with the skirt that included a slit up the side. It was beautiful and the effects positively breathtaking.

There was an overload of floral print usage at some points, particularly on brocade dresses that from time to time were also fringed with fur, while the leopard capelet was a rather satisfying find among the mix. Worn over a floral pantsuit, it looked even more superb.

We loved seeing the blended wool dresses, especially since this is a fall and winter season ready-to-wear collection, while we know that the use of paillettes only made the Milan Fashion Week show appear all the richer. Cashmere tights are also a steal from Blumarine, for those things are beyond comfortable to wear out, while still managing to keep very warm.

T-shirts, fur hoods, sheer cocktail dresses with strategically placed opacity, pantsuits, jackets, Swarovski crystals and so much more made this collection a rather intriguing one. It could definitely have been a little better, but there is little that can be said in terms of criticism here, especially with those powder pink handbags all over and the fun, light hued shoes worn throughout.

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Temperley London Fall 2016 Show Brings Mermaids and Pirates to LFW

Fashion

Alice Temperley’s oeuvre is all about elegant, playful, coquettish, cheerful, flirtatious woman – all rolled into one. And the Temperley London fall/winter 2016-2017 RTW line unveiled yesterday made an enlivening replenishment to the list bringing about the naughty essence of a woman. To achieve her goal the British designer tried her wings in the pirate lifestyle successfully interlacing it with alluring and magnetic mermaids and nymphs living deep in the ocean and coming out of the water surface only to intoxicate every living soul.

Temperley London Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW - London Fashion Week

“She’s very elegant and as playful as before, but she’s just a bit naughtier this time,” the designer said. “She sort of tells the story of a very young and fresh mermaid who goes a little bit dark and pirate-like and then comes back as a mermaid in the end.” Her brain-child sailed right through the Caribbean Sea running across a marvellous mermaid at times assuming a mannish pirate disguise, at times going back to her fragile mermaid spirit.

The contrast dreamt up was really lovely and inspiring all impregnated with white, cream, baby blue, lilac, lavender, blue-grey and rust shades. The pirate theme and the designer’s idea to garner all the tattoos of her friends, gave her carte blanche to create a bevy of pieces with prints and motifs galore ranging from aromatic roses, forget-me-nots, cherries and swallows holding loads of ribbons in their beaks to seafaring-worthy anchors, jellyfish, seahorses and words “LOST AT SEA” peeping in between. There were also many leopards waylaying, the tattoo ideas of heart locks, stars and dice having inspired Temperley mostly.

The amalgamation of all these images on a single look was at times bringing forth a real chaos and a watchful eye to figure out what is what like that tulle flowing dress with center slit replete with myriads of flowers, a couple of swallows and fish, while the hem sheltering a jellyfish free-swimming through the waters. The chaotic milieu was everywhere whether we looked at a midi illusion dress, a black cape, a black midi dress + knitted sweater combo or an amazing silver grey baby-doll dress with layered bell sleeves.

The sailor-inspired froggings on cropped corduroy jackets, midi skirts, capes, vests and even on diaphanous fabrics were the starting point in turning a fragile mermaid into a vigorous and naughty woman, which kicked it with even higher gear when a series of pirate suits came to arena – pussy bow white shirts with long puffed sleeves teamed with slouchy pants and cropped jackets or vests. Alas, there weren’t any swords, rifles or flintlocks for more tableau to marvel at!

Ethereal gowns, the forte of Alice Temperley, were of course in attendance starting from a white cotton dress with many ruffled layers, a blue maxi flaring dress knee-deep with flowers, a black diaphanous one with many layers and with many green-lilac-lavender floral embroidered embellishments, and finishing with an amazing bunch; we heard those wedding bells clearly enough and got the eyeful of bohemian bridal dresses in white, silver grey and powdery pink shades demonstrating Temperley’s delicate handicraft with gems, sequins and beads.

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Alice + Olivia Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW – NYFW

Fashion

When fashion meets literature, only good things are about to happen. Stacey Bendet, Alice + Olivia’s creative director and self-proclaimed vintage lover knows that and isn’t afraid to let herself get carried away by a good book whenever she finds one. For her Alice + Olivia fall/winter 2016-17 ready-to-wear collection, unveiled at New York Fashion Week, Bendet couldn’t help getting viscerally inspired by Garth Risk Hallberg’s debut novel City On Fire.

Alice + Olivia Fall/Winter 2016-2017 RTW - NYFW

“I was reading that book City on Fire, and I just became really fascinated with that moment. New York City was financially bankrupt, but culturally, it was exploding,” she later declared, revealing the collection’s main protagonists – New York and the Seventies.

Bendet’s choice to celebrate New York isn’t, however, only linked to Hallberg’s book, as the fashion designer is feeling a significant and worrisome change of direction within the city’s cultural life, and is determined to bring it back: “Right now, we’re watching so much creativity leave New York—every artist or musician is moving to L.A. was craving that moment when it was all right here.”

Besides its New Yorker settings, City of Fire whisks its readers back to the Seventies, catapulting them in a city literally divided between the good and the bad, as on the one hand bankruptcy and gritty criminal gangs were taking over a city, where never-seen-before artistic and music movements were relentlessly flourishing. Among them, punk rockers, hippies and hip hop artists were surely helping many suburban kids and young adults escape from New York’s criminal, yet quite magnetic side, making the Big Apple one of the world’s most influential cultural centers.

Bendet perfectly managed to merge her desire to let New York thrive again with her passion for vintage clothes, serving a strong lineup that is destined to overwhelm us with its bright colors and fancy silhouettes. Both the hippie and the punk rock movements got involved in this FW 2016-17 rtw collection, as the fashion designer particularly enjoyed intertwining the two main themes together mainly utilizing a well-tailored mishmash of different patterns.

“When I started Alice + Olivia, all of my inspiration photos were of my mom in these amazing bell-bottom pants. I wanted to go back to that era…of rock ‘n’ roll, of empowered women,” she told WWD, emphasizing even more her willingness to celebrate women. “If that’s not a girl power moment, I don’t know what is.”

And her lineup is indeed for a strong independent woman, who has fun playing with different styles, cuts and even color-blocking motifs. From bold green to blue, from yellow to red and of course black, the lineups really has it all, and isn’t afraid to use it.

As for the lines and cuts, Bendet made sure both boho-chic and the glam rock styles had their time to shine, meaning that she managed to treat us us both to layered maxi gowns and mannish suits, alternating flared-sleeve coats with asymmetrical curve-hugging mini dresses and even studded jackets.

Paisley motif, animal prints and floral patterns adorn most of the retro proposals, taking advantage of Bendet’s colorful mind. Thanks to her great attention to details, the collection also delivers unique accessories that are just the icing on the cake, as they better define and emphasize each look with an even stronger boho-chic or punk rock allure. With all the sinuous cuissardes boots, animal-printed handbags and big hats we could rightly state less is more was definitely out of her wheelhouse here.

It doesn’t however mean she doesn’t enjoy minimalistic forms of art from time to time: one of the collection’s key pieces is a long-sleeve geometric-print gown inspired by American minimalistic painter and printmaker Frank Stella, whose works were greatly influenced by Jackson Pollock and Franz Kline.

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