Louis Vuitton Resort 2016

2015-11-2 fashion Louis Vuitton

After last year’s Louis Vuitton show at the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, artistic director of women’s collections Nicolas Ghesquière tipped his hat to an entirely different kind of royalty for resort 2016, staging the presentation in the grounds of Bob and Dolores Hope’s breathtaking estate in Palm Springs. “I remember coming to Palm Springs fifteen or 20 years ago and being so impressed by this place—it’s almost like a castle,” said Ghesquière backstage after the show. “The Hopes were really brave and radical to build something so ahead of its time with John Lautner.”

With its tropical-kitsch seventies wallpaper and awe-inspiring Jetson-style proportions, the house is a historic modernist landmark and yet conjures a vision of the future that we’re still catching up to. Those keenly forward-thinking instincts are right in line with the designer and his process: In his hands, even the most distinctly retro references are recast and re-imagined with a confident back-to-the-future sense of ease. Attempting to unpick a Ghesquièrian web of inspiration is never straightforward for that very reason.

This season was no different, although a few key mood-board touchstones did emerge. The longer, leaner line of the collection had a Lady-of-the-Canyon whimsy to it, and was a clear departure from the short and sweet modish hemlines that have figured in the last few seasons. In fact they resonated more strongly with the silhouette Ghesquière carved out as a young up-and-comer at the house ofBalenciaga. Pair the ankle-grazing chiffon skirts and apron dresses with an LV logo backpack and a palladium-style sneaker (a sporty boot made so for the desert, or so said Ghesquière), and the look took on a nineties club-kid vibe.

That unexpected mix of romantic and rebel, like a prairie dress cut with studded harnesses or fashioned from embroidered leather, made for a compelling and modern idea of evening. Ghesquière pointed to the stylings of cool California girls as an influence, those types who regularly combine a winter wardrobe with a spring one (where else on the planet will you find summer dresses worn with fur gilets but in L.A.!), and that approach to dressing felt particularly right for a transitional season. It’s perhaps also why, more than It bags, the rich and varied outerwear stood out in the collection: biker jackets with exaggerated buckled collars, cropped bombers with gothic lacing, and body-skimming patchwork suede jackets spun with curlicue sequin insets. That intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail was a nod back to the codes and traditions of the house, but also showed just where Ghesquière is capable of taking Louis Vuitton.

Powered by Handbagishows.com sitemap